Any of those develop a fault to pull excess current like that and the board stops POSTing generally. EPS 12V on our boards is usually isolated to VCC and at most some of the secondary CPU rails. The board would not power up if any of the connected VRM ciruicts were faulty. Look up EPS 12V specs and then think about current draw.I'm not getting into anything else with you other than to make you aware of why it can happen. You don't have to follow what I said 100%. I don't have much faith in them repairing it, I'm not even sure if I should spend the $20+ shipping it to them. I'm not sure why they wouldn't be able to desolder the connector and solder on a new one, but I guess that would mean it was my fault, so if there was any chance they would agree to repair it, I assume the charge for the part, the labor, and shipping it back would probably not be worth it. He talked to his supervisor, and he said I could send it in, they would inspect it, but if they say it is "physical damage" they would send it back unrepaired. I also mentioned that I had already went out and purchased their most expensive AM3+ board. I think I said something about not being sure if it was a short in the power supply or the board. I spoke to a native English speaker, although as soon as I told him what had happened, he said "that is physical damage, and not covered under the warranty". The RMA request did NOT go through on their website, despite the website saying "Thanks, we received your request". The unfortunate part is I work at home and this is my work computer now, I could use my laptop like I have been doing for the last couple years, but my desktop is all set up nicely now. I got a few suggestions on another forum to replace both, so I suppose I'll be going over to Fry's *groan* to pick up some replacement parts, and hopefully get RMA's on these parts and then have spares or sell them off. I'm glad I got a good deal on the mobo being used, so it's not a huge hit if they don't want to replace that's the strange thing, they both are still working, but obviously neither part is instilling confidence in thanks for the suggestions, although I don't have PSU tester and/or voltmeter, so I'm not sure if I'll be able to pinpoint the issue quite that well. I'm not sure how old the board is, but I believe that this particular board came with a 5 year warranty, so it should still definitely be That's sort of what I expected, Corsair to be able to replace the PSU, but I wasn't expecting much from Asus. but I can still plug the cord in, and it still boots up. To answer a few questions, I can't really say if the socket is okay, there is a little plastic in there for sure. But the part that got burned is the complete opposite side that is nearest the VRM heatsink. It's a Corsair TX750M.Īnyone been in a similar situation? Suggestions?Įdit: Actually, the strange part is, the CPU connection is RIGHT next to the VRM heatsink, which gets up to 60 or 70C under a Prime95 load. The PSU is new and definitely under warranty, but I'm not sure if it would be covered if it was the motherboard that charred it. I'm not sure about RMA'ing anything, the motherboard was purchased used so I'm not sure about the warranty on that.
#Sabertooth 990fx cpu led Pc#
Question is, the PC still boots, and seems to be running alright. So I pulled off my new Antec Kuhler 920, looked around, and I found the reason for the smell: The CPU also seemed to be running a little hotter.
Today I was doing some overclocking and stress testing, and I noticed that if the PC crashed then a few times it would show the CPU light that there was an error on boot (Sabertooth feature).
I sniffed around my PC but couldn't really identify it. It was almost like tar, and I couldn't pinpoint it, so I thought it might be coming from outside. So over this weekend I smelled a foul burning plastic smell.